Near & Far: Recipes Inspired by Home and Travel, by Heidi Swanson
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Near & Far: Recipes Inspired by Home and Travel, by Heidi Swanson
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Known for combining natural foods recipes with evocative, artful photography, New York Times bestselling author Heidi Swanson circled the globe to create this mouthwatering assortment of 120 vegetarian dishes. In this deeply personal collection drawn from her well-worn recipe journals, Heidi describes the fragrance of flatbreads hot off a Marrakech griddle, soba noodles and feather-light tempura in Tokyo, and the taste of wild-picked greens from the Puglian coast. Recipes such as Fennel Stew, Carrot & Sake Salad, Watermelon Radish Soup, Brown Butter Tortelli, and Saffron Tagine use healthy, whole foods ingredients and approachable techniques, and photographs taken in Morocco, Japan, Italy, France, and India, as well as back home in Heidi’s kitchen, reveal the places both near and far that inspire her warm, nourishing cooking.From the Hardcover edition.
Near & Far: Recipes Inspired by Home and Travel, by Heidi Swanson- Amazon Sales Rank: #111518 in eBooks
- Published on: 2015-09-15
- Released on: 2015-09-15
- Format: Kindle eBook
Review “Over the last decade, Heidi Swanson has done more than anyone to diversify the modern pantry and elevate kitchen aesthetics. Simultaneously universal and deeply personal, Near & Far will stoke your curiosity, guide you through an ever-expanding list of flavors and ingredients, and inspire you to try something new, all over again.” —Samin Nosrat, chef and writer “Near & Far is a delicious paean to the culinary glories of world travel, and the grounding comfort found in returning to one’s own home kitchen. Heidi Swanson has married her keen traveler’s eye to her devoted home cook’s soul, and created a quietly sumptuous masterpiece rooted in place that stands alongside the work of Pico Iyer and Yotam Ottolenghi for sheer, mouthwatering breadth. This book will never leave my kitchen.” —Elissa Altman, author of Poor Man’s Feast “I love Heidi Swanson’s recipes. They’re unique and special, and everything I’ve made from Near & Far has been enthusiastically enjoyed by friends at my table. But what I especially love about this book is Heidi’s singular, centered voice. Here is a person who cooks, eats, and travels—all the while standing calmly in a complex and interesting, but not always easy, world.” —Deborah Madison, author of Vegetable Literacy and The New Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone
About the Author HEIDI SWANSON is the author of Super Natural Cooking and Super Natural Every Day, a New York Times bestseller and winner of a James Beard Award. She is also the creator of the award-winning recipe blog 101 Cookbooks, curator of the online boutique shop Quitokeeto, and a San Francisco–based photographer. Her work has appeared in Food & Wine, Saveur, Glamour, Washington Post, Time, Fast Company, and the Vegetarian Times, among others.
Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved. Introduction January 25—Long, thin whips of deep green puntarelle, a swarm of tiny yellow key limes, dried persimmons with downy skins, red-skinned hand-cracked walnuts, chickpea flour, sprouted mung beans, a friendly giant pomelo with twin glossy leaves attached, stubby bouquets of nameko mushrooms, little yellow pom-poms from snipped branches of acacia tree. February 15—Fresh fenugreek, ruffled baby cabbage, parrot tulips and buttery freesia blossoms, rose petal jam, French radishes, the tiniest, pointiest green onions, and sprout-fed eggs. March 22—Helleborus and daffodil, Tahitian pomelo, dried blood oranges, seascape strawberries, amaranth, nettles, fresh pressed olive oil, kumquats, and lazy clusters of fragrant lilacs ranging in hue from pale, dusty purple to electric violet. Like many cooks, I keep journals. And when you look at mine, you notice cracked spines and paper that is no longer crisp, or clean, or bright. The corners are dull and dog-eared, the pages filled with my handwriting—black ink, the all-caps penmanship I suspect I inherited from my father. Scraps, scrawls, and sketches are taped to lined pages. Newspaper clippings, laser printouts, and magazine snippets commingle in an unruly mob of fonts. There are photos, stamps, receipts, lists, and sticky notes. I keep the journals for a number of reasons, but mostly so I don’t forget details—the pattern of an ancient Italian olive grove as seen on approach to the Bari airport, colorful pickles and tiny salads beautifully arranged as part of a bento lunch in Kyoto’s Nishiki Market, the markings on the craggy, hand-painted bowls piled high with fekka and chebakia pastries at a shop in Marrakech, or the impossibly small cherry tomatoes, no larger than blueberries, at Takashimaya in Tokyo. Closer to home, I note the comings and goings of ingredients in my own kitchen, the details of meals shared, and my favorite farmers’ market finds week by week. As I turn the pages of these books, it’s clear that much of the food I cook is inspired by two things: where I live (Northern California), and where I’ve traveled. Food rooted in place—both near and far. This is a cookbook that attempts to explore both. I’m forty years old now, which means I’ve lived long enough to settle in a bit. I’m generally happy, curious, and optimistic. I like to think people who know me would concur. My life in San Francisco is a series of rituals and routines. I collect fresh flowers every week. Walk most places I go. Have coffee on Saturday morning with friends. Brew beer with my brother-in-law, but not as often as I’d like. Northern California is where I try to stand still a bit, keep things simple, and watch things change around me. The markets evolve incrementally week after week—poppies giving way to peonies, donut peaches and Pandora leeks giving way to gypsy peppers, amethyst radishes, and purple wax beans. The pruned trees in Golden Gate Park go from twiggy and lifeless to lush, green, and full in a steady march through spring into summer and fall. Home is good. That said, I started traveling, extensively, as soon as I found a job after college and could afford to. I spent the bulk of my bank account on a flight to Europe, a trip that showed me I could explore far-flung places on my own dollar, sparking a desire to see more of the world I was a part of. In an interview, Pico Iyer said, “It’s only by stepping out of your life and the world that you can see what you most deeply care about and find a home. . . . And home, in the end, is of course not just the place where you sleep. It’s the place where you stand.” Travel inspired my thinking, relationships, sensibility, sense of self, and, eventually, the way I approached cooking. I do my best to explore someplace new, or revisit a place I love, a couple of times a year. Once you’re home from a trip, details tend to fall away. I noticed, long after I’ve forgotten the names of monuments, train stations, or boulevards of a city I’ve traveled to, the flavors would stay with me. Every place has its own always evolving culinary voice. And it’s not just ingredients and flavors, but also techniques, traditions, and vessels. In the broadest sense, these impressions and memories are what inspire new ideas in my own kitchen as well as spark the urge to re-create dishes or flavor combinations that made the deepest mark. The Book The book is divided into two major sections—Near and Far. The Near section focuses on recipes inspired by my life in San Francisco and Northern California. Far is divided into five chapters: Morocco, France, India, Italy, and Japan. These are places with rich, often ancient, culinary cultures—places I’ve spent a good amount of time, in many cases with extended or multiple trips over a span of years. I’ve also threaded a few of my favorite travel-friendly preparations into a section titled En Route. At the start of each chapter, I list favorite ingredients traditionally used in the cuisine of that place (My Moroccan Pantry, My Japanese Pantry, and so on). They are the ingredients that resonate with me and speak to my cooking approach best—they aren’t intended to be comprehensive but are more a sketch of the ingredients I turn to most or am most enthusiastic about using within that palette. Many are used within the recipes here, but not necessarily all. They’re listed this way for quick brainstorming and inspiration in your own kitchen. Within each chapter, recipes are organized starting with lunch, moving on to dinner, drinks, and treats. I tend to think of the next day’s breakfast at the end of the day, so those close out the chapters. The Recipes The recipes in this book are rooted in place and correspondingly organized. I tend to be drawn to places where natural foods are celebrated and traditional foodways are in practice. Much of that influence is woven into the recipes throughout. That said, it’s not the sort of cookbook that is going to drill down on the nutritional benefits of this pulse or that vegetable—although those considerations are a part of how I cook and certainly one aspect of what I think about as I approach a recipe. For those of you who have Super Natural Cooking or Super Natural Every Day on your shelf, consider this a companion volume. You’ll recognize the spirit of the previous volumes—real food and powerful vegetarian ingredients made into dishes that are worth making. Perhaps some description of my approach will help illuminate how I came to include the recipes you see here. Everything starts with me trying to garner a sense of place, particularly when I’m traveling. On the culinary front, I attempt to gain a basic understanding of the traditional culture of the cuisine I’m immersed in, gather some historical context, get a handle on what ingredients are typically used and which cooking techniques are deployed, and understand what people are cooking and why. A good amount of wandering and meandering is part of my process, punctuated by stops at specific shops, restaurants, stalls, markets, and establishments I’ve earmarked ahead of time. Perhaps most importantly, I seek out my beat within other cultures (as well as my own). In Japan, I tend to focus on many of the macrobiotic and shojin-ryori (Zen Buddhist temple cuisine) preparations and ingredients. Or, related to India, I like to learn about what ingredients practitioners use for Ayurvedic treatments, or what they eat daily in an ashram or in a Jain temple or in the narrow street alleys of Chandni Chowk, Delhi’s ancient market. It’s from this vantage point that I begin to think about cooking and recipe development, and where I often find my own angle, voice, and technique. You’ll see a mix of recipe types in this book. One recipe was inspired by Grace Young’s passion for cooking with a cast-iron wok, another after I saw a group of women breaking for lunch on a crowded Delhi sidewalk; there was a carrot salad I encountered in a snowy mountain monastery town, and another recipe idea sparked by a favorite Japanese spice blend, shichimi togarashi. There are recipes inspired by ingredients I’ve encountered, markets I’ve shopped, cooks I’ve chatted up, books I’ve read, and scribbles I’ve made in my journal; there are my takes on regional preparations and others based on snapshots I’ve taken with my camera. Stylistically, I have some rules—although rule might be too strong a word: best practices could be a better term. I tend to work within a regional palette of ingredients. Meaning, you won’t see a whole lot of cross-cultural ingredient mixing within recipes or chapters. If I’m cooking with Japanese ingredients, I’ll likely use oil from that palette—perhaps sesame. The vinegar might be brown rice vinegar, the noodles buckwheat soba, and the seasoning shoyu or mirin. So I won’t often mix, say, shoyu with ras el hanout or use preserved lemons with miso. I also tend to do multiple dishes from one region and not serve, for example, a tagine alongside saag paneer. Many of the recipes lend themselves easily to seasonal adaptations, so keep that in mind—if a recipe calls for asparagus, and it’s autumn, consider using broccoli or cauliflower. Finally, a word about sourcing ingredients. It is understood in many cultures that food is powerful medicine, with whole or natural foods being the most beneficial, interesting, and delicious. Do your best to avoid genetically modified crops or those that have been sprayed intensively with pesticides, or grown in soil that has been fertilized with chemicals known to damage the environment as well as the health of the individuals harvesting your food. Seek out food and ingredients that are healthy, powerful, and full of beauty and vitality—the sort of food that lifts the spirit and sustains the body: food that hasn’t been stripped of its natural nutrients and beneficial properties. It matters and it is worth it. ------------------------------------------------------Baked Oatmeal pluots • kefir • almondsI suspect the baked oatmeal recipe in my last book made it into more kitchens than any other recipe I’ve ever written. It’s still a regular here at home, in various guises, and this is a version worth celebrating. Made with crimson-fleshed Dapple Dandy pluots, it rides the line beautifullybetween the sweetness of the summer fruit and the tanginess of the kefir or buttermilk. Other stone fruit can be substituted. Serves 6 Zest of 1 lemon 2 cups | 7 oz | 200 g rolled oats 1/2 cup | 2 oz | 60 g whole Marcona almonds 1 teaspoon aluminum-free baking powder Scant 1/2 teaspoon fine-grain sea salt 1/3 cup | 2 oz | 60 g maple syrup, plus more for serving 1 cup | 240 ml kefir or buttermilk 1 cup | 240 ml water 1 egg 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract 1 pound | 455 g ripe pluots, quartered and pitted A bit of cream, to serve Preheat the oven to 375°F | 190°C with a rack in the top third of the oven. Generously butter the inside of an 8-inch | 20cm square baking dish (or equivalent), then sprinkle with lemon zest. In a bowl, mix together the oats, almonds, baking powder, and salt. In another bowl, whisk together the maple syrup, kefir, water, egg, half of the butter, and the vanilla. Arrange the pluots in a single layer in the bottom of the prepared baking dish. Cover the fruit with the oat mixture. Slowly drizzle the kefir mixture over the oats. Gently give the baking dish a couple of raps on the countertop to make sure the liquid moves through the oats. Bake for 35 to 45 minutes, until the top is nicely golden and the oat mixture has set. Remove from the oven and let cool for a few minutes. Drizzle the remaining melted butter on the top and serve. Finish with a bit more maple syrup if you want it a bit sweeter, and a thread of cream to bring it all together.
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33 of 38 people found the following review helpful. interesting, but not the best by this cookbook author By Amazon Customer I'm a big fan of the earlier cookbooks Super Natural Cooking & Super Natural Everyday and pre-ordered this volume based on my earlier experiences with this author...but this latest volume, in my opinion, is not as good, although the photography is excellent and inspires one to try these regional recipes. However, many of the recipes rely on a liberal use of butter or large amounts of oil (seriously, a half a cup of olive oil for the Fennel Stew??) and some of the flavor combinations just...don't... work. Tried a few of the recipes already and had to make significant modifications. That being said, the Root Donburi was excellent as was the Simmered Winter Squash (altho i did use a drop lid for the cooking process which was not presented in the recipe). Optimistically looking forward to trying the Easy Little Rye Bread which sounds like it would be excellent with my homemade raspberry jam. Can only give this cookbook 3 stars...maybe a result of unrealistic expectations based on the previous cookbooks...would highly recommend the other books by this author instead of this one...Update: tried the "Easy Little Rye Bread" and had to make a number of modifications to the recipe: first, its very important to reduce the water to 1 1/3 cups [using the 1 1/2 cups specified in the recipe resulted in a "batter" instead of a "dough" and a compromised loaf],;adding 2-3 teaspoons of caraway seeds really pumped up the rye flavor; also, this recipe benefited from a second rise...the best outcome i had was the result of letting the dough rise in the mixing bowl for 30 minutes then transferring it to the baking pan and letting it rise again while the oven pre-heated (10-15-min); ...this resulted in an absolutely WONDERFUL little loaf of bread that was fantastic for everything from little smoked salmon sandwiches, toasted bread spread with raspberry jam as an accompaniment for tea, mopping up the remainders of a freshly made carrot soup, and spread with goat cheese topped with roasted beets...5 Stars for this particular recipe ONCE IT HAD BEEN MODIFIED!! [Its important to note that i am very particular when it comes to bread making and always use a scale to weigh out ingredients...]
12 of 14 people found the following review helpful. Intriguing new vegetarian recipes, well-written and beautifully photographed By Kat L Heidi's latest book is organized by location, starting with "near" (SF), En Route (nutritious portables to take with you during travel), then moving through "far" places (Morocco, Japan, Italy, France, India), and finally accompaniments. SF definitely is the largest single section of recipes, but there's plenty of variety in terms of flavors. There are gorgeous, eat-me-now photographs for many of the dishes and also plenty of travel photos, although none of the location photos seem to be described in any way.As with her blog and previous cookbook, all the recipes are vegetarian and a large percentage of these recipes look delicious yet easy to execute. The recipes are well-written and clear - I really like Heidi's friendly writing style, she has a way of making me feel as if we're in the kitchen chatting while cooking. She gives great guidance about what you are looking for as you go. Each recipe has some brief intro about why it's in the book and this intro might contain relevant notes about how to shop for a specialty item like shichimi (for her Nori Granola) or what you can substitute if you cannot find the major ingredient or it's out-of-season (as with the Strawberry Salad).Since the book was just released, I've only made the Cucumber Salad (with lemongrass, tofu, red onion, and kale - there's a kale or cilantro option here, but 1 cup of cilantro seemed like an awful lot to me and I like cilantro). It is the recipe she opens with to "set the tone", so it seemed like a good choice. It is delicious, refreshing and filling, so I am certainly looking forward to testing more of her recipes like the Almond Cake, the Saag Paneer with scratch-made Paneer, the lentil & chickpea-based Harira (a Moroccan soup), and the Rye Pound Cake (which sounds absolutely genius and is full of pepitas, sunflower seeds, black sesame, caraway and orange zest). For me, about 30-50% of the recipes look like something I might actually make, which is not as many as I was hoping for, but still plenty of intriguing new dishes.My main complaint is I would have preferred fewer recipes for drinks, and more recipes for food. For example, the France section holds 13 recipes; 3 of these are for drinks and 3 are pretty simple tartine recipes. Only a few are recipes for an actual dish. The India section holds 11 recipes; 3 of these are for drinks. I like drinks just fine, but she doesn't post that many drink recipes and they weren't discussed at all in the book summary. I was excited about this book for the food recipes, and the drink recipes are mostly wasted on me, but they do give a sense of the location.
7 of 8 people found the following review helpful. What Creative Ideas! By Adrienne What creative ideas from this cookbook author! Unique recipes characterize this book: miso in oatmeal, red lentils in hummus, and quick pickled rose petals, among others.Heidi Swanson is a well-known cookbook author and blogger. She divides her new vegetarian cookbook into two major parts. The first, Near, reflects her San Francisco and California cooking. The second, Far, focuses on places she visited: Morocco, France, India, Italy, and Japan; however, don't expect the sections to necessarily include typical recipes from the regions. She is an innovator. For example, her recipe for Madeleines in the France chapter features whole wheat pastry flour and millet.The beginning of each chapter includes a list of ingredients in her pantry for that chapter. Items such as kinome, ras el hanout, yuba, and amaro are there, among others. A brief description of these as well as where one might look for them would be helpful.The photography has a dreamy quality. More pages, 89, are devoted to scenery, designs, and ingredients, than pages devoted to an actual recipe product, 82.A brief, chatty note is inserted along with each recipe. I liked that just below the title of each recipe was a short line of major ingredients, no more than four, to give one a quick idea of the flavors involved.I tried four recipes:Miso Oat Porridge. This definitely has an umami taste. I made it with some older miso, and the flavor was very strong. Remaking it with fresh miso was much more to my liking. This is an interesting dish for people who enjoy this flavor.Popovers. These said, "Pepper!" when you ate them. Mine were pop-unders. The batter was thicker than that from my popover recipe, and I used a scale to weigh the flour. Heidi adds baking powder and bakes them in a 400 degree F. oven. It is interesting to note the Nov./Dec. 2015 issue of Cooks Illustrated, page 26, recommends a 450 degree F. oven for popovers.Cauliflower Pasta. This was average and became bitter the second day when the za'atar was allowed to come into full bloom. I would have liked a picture of this in the book to see what yuba skins look like in the dish.Fennel Frond Orzo. This was a winner. It contained capers, fennel fronds, almonds, and black olives, but none of these flavors dwarfed the others. I might serve this to guests.I so wanted to like this book; however, my experience wasn't five star. On the other hand, the recipes are intriguing enough for me to want to try more.I received this book from Blogging for Books. These are my own opinions.
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